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When curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, tucked prominently among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has made the owners completely surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” states a owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble place securing such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.